The most famous route on the mountain is the North Ridge. Located in the popular Alpine Lakes Wilderness in the central region of the North Cascades, Mount Stuart is one the largest single masses of exposed granite in the United States. Climbers who hire professional guides enjoy considerably higher success rates. Approximately 13,000 climbers attempt Mount Rainier every year, and about half of them succeed. The most popular route begins at Paradise on the south side of the mountain and approaches the summit via the Muir Snowfield, Ingraham Flats and the Disappointment Cleaver. With more than 30 distinct summit routes, the mountain offers something for mountaineers of all skill levels. Today, Mount Rainier is one of North America’s foremost alpine proving grounds. It was probably first ascended by a member of a local tribe, but the first recorded ascent was completed by Hazard Stevens and P.B. Known as “Tahoma” to local Indian tribes, this giant stratovolcano was named Mount Rainier by George Vancouver on his maritime expedition in 1792. On clear days, climbers on the summit enjoy unobstructed views of the North Cascades, the Olympic Mountains, Mount Baker, Mount Adams, Mount Hood, Mount Saint Helens, and the islands of the Puget Sound. ![]() Mount Rainier is the highest point in the Pacific Northwest and offers more glaciated technical terrain than any other mountain in the contiguous United States. Climbers may also choose to ascend the more challenging Southeast Ridge of Mount Torment or complete the classic Torment-Forbidden Traverse from the summit of Torment to the top of Forbidden Peak. The Southeast Face Route can be combined with ascents of Sahale Peak and Sharkfin Tower as part of a moderate tour of Boston Basin. While the terrain is not overly difficult, we enjoy interesting and sometimes steep terrain as we make our way to the summit. The Southeast Face Route follows the path of least resistance to the notch on the east corner of Mount Torment. From here, we traverse west under a spur ridge off of the Torment-Forbidden Traverse, then ascend slabs and finally glacier to the base of the route. ![]() ![]() We approach Torment via the Boston Basin Trail and establish a high camp at the edge of the Unnamed Glacier on Forbidden Peak. The climbing on Mount Torment’s Southeast Face is much easier than the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak, but Torment is not without its obstacles and is a rewarding mountain. Located just west of Forbidden Peak, Mount Torment can be climbed as an excellent one-day outing from Boston Basin, or combined with the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak for the famous Torment-Forbidden Traverse. 3 Day Smith Rock Intro to Sport Climbing.5 Day Mount Baker Glacier Mountaineering.
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